Genova often gets a bad rap. Many dismiss the Ligurian capital as gritty and rough, a pass-through city to reach postcard-worthy destinations like Cinque Terre and Portofino. It’s true that you may have to look past its industrial past to its “La Superba” one, but it’s well worth it, for those who take the time to explore this port city will find a labyrinth of narrow, twisting carrugi where Renaissance palaces rise unexpectedly between laundry lines and hidden courtyards reveal stunning frescos and lush gardens. One such gem is Palazzo Ducale, the Mannerist-style palace once the seat of Genova’s Doge, whose grand halls now give rise to one of the city’s greatest cultural hubs for art exhibitions, festivals, and other events. 

We chatted with the Palazzo Ducale Fondazione per la Cultura’s director, Ilaria Bonacossa, to curate your perfect weekend in Genova. After having lived in the city from 2012 to 2016, when she was curator of contemporary art museum Villa Croce, the Milanese native returned this year to helm Palazzo Ducale (after stints at London’s Luhring Augustine Gallery and as director of Turin’s Artissima, the first contemporary art fair in the country). It’s no surprise that she has a curatorial eye for beauty, pointing to some of Genova’s most magnificent sites–and museum-worthy meals. Here, how to spend 48 hours in Genova, according to one of the city’s top art curators. 

DAY 1

BREAKFAST

Douce Pâtisserie Café – Make your way to this pâtisserie in Piazza Matteotti for the sweetest start to your day. Their products focus on seasonal fruits–no strawberries in December!–and using local ingredients over imported ones: like swapping out the vanilla or cacao for basil or olive oil. According to Bonacossa, it’s best to enjoy your coffee and treat outside, “right in front of the grandeur of the Palazzo Ducale.”

MORNING

Stroll through Genova’s botteghe storiche – To take a true “journey through Genova’s history,” Bonacossa says to tour through the city’s botteghe storiche (historic stores), with some dating back to the 17th century. You can follow the full chronological itinerary listed here, but Bonacossa’s faves include the Romanengo confectionery, Viganotti chocolate shop, Luico cork factory, Dallai Antique Bookstore, Latteria Buonafede cheese shop, and grocery Drogheria Torielli.

LUNCH

Zupp – Next, head to Piazza San Matteo–“an architectural and urban jewel of the historic center,” says Bonacossa–which has a great spot for a quick lunch. Relying on flavors you might not see elsewhere, Zupp has a veg- and fish-forward menu that they self describe as “between experimentation and tradition”: think reinvented vitello tonnato, french onion soup, or a tortino of octopus and pesto.

AFTERNOON

Visit Palazzo Ducale – On Piazza Matteotti, this majestic Mannerist palazzo has been everything from the seat of the doge to the court of justice. Check their website to see what exhibitions are currently featured. 

APERITIVO

Il Calice – Come aperitivo time, make your way up the hill a bit to Il Calice for nothing other than un calice di vino and some salty snacks. Grab a seat on the tree-shaded balcony to catch glimpses of the pastel sea in the distance, and watch the sky change colors over the tight-knit buildings of the city center. 

DINNER

Le Cicale in Città – The beautiful, delicate interiors of this spot resemble tea rooms in London more so than other restaurants in Genova. However, their menu, and the owners, are fully Ligurian, with most dishes highlighting the best of the region’s seafood. Bonacossa explains that the spot has “a touch of elegance and refinement not only in the menu, but also in the ambiance and decor.” Popular orders include the antipasti crudi and a warm chocolate cake. 

AFTER HOURS

Ladidà – Post dinner, head back towards Palazzo Ducale and Piazza de Ferrari for a nightcap. Their parlor club has a total 1920s vibe, and you’ll sip your negroni on a leather couch beside blood red walls. Show off your skills on the billiards table to a soundtrack of live jazz.

Go to a show at Teatro Nazionale di Genova – This relatively new theater, a reinvention of two previous ones, embraces a mix of classic, contemporary, and cross-disciplinary works in four venues across the city. The 2024/25 season offers 70 shows, including 18 in-house productions, with a focus on global perspectives, female voices, and young companies. Check their biglietteria for upcoming shows and to buy tickets. 

DAY 2

BREAKFAST

Pasticceria Strano – Owned by power-couple Carmelo and Rosella Degori, this pasticceria makes superlative versions of all the classics–notably, pains au chocolat, croissants, fresh fruit tarts, cannoli, and maritozzi. Bonacossa describes it as a place of “mille delizie” (“a thousand delicacies”), and it’s located just steps away from your next stop: the Rolli Palaces.

MORNING

Palazzi dei Rolli – Once you’re properly sugared and caffeinated, take a stroll along “Le Strade Nuove e il sistema dei Palazzi del Rolli” (“The New Roads and the System of the Palazzi del Rolli”), a collection of 42 noble Renaissance and Baroque palaces dotted across the city. This collective UNESCO heritage site only captures a portion of the 100+ such palaces located here, but they certainly give a glimpse into the glamor of a bygone era. A few of the palaces have been turned into museums, which you can buy tickets for here. 

LUNCH

Trattoria Rosmarino – After, stop by this 15-year-old charming trattoria for lunch. Their menu features many Slow Food Presidium ingredients in dishes like cima alla genovese con salsa verde (presidium cima di rapa with green sauce) and ravioli di borragine al “tocco” di cabannina (ravioli with local beef ragu) that are “reimagined with skillful touches of flavor and creativity,” shares Bonacossa. The interiors are reminiscent of a Parisian cafe, but on a sunny day, it’s particularly lovely to sit outside right on Piazza De Ferrari. 

AFTERNOON

Parchi di Nervi – When Genova’s caruggi start feeling a bit tight, hop on the train and head east to the tiny town of Nervi on the city’s outskirts. “Plunge into nature and the beauty of gardens that once belonged to the Gropallo, Saluzzo Serra, Grimaldi Fassio, and Luxoro villas,” suggests Bonacossa. The villas themselves are now valuable modern and contemporary art museums, but it’s the manicured English gardens that really wow. Don’t miss the stunning sea view from the Anita Garibaldi promenade.

APERITIVO

La Strambata (Boccadasse) – As the sun slowly begins to set, hop back on the train and head to the charming, colorful village of Boccadasse, the closest place to city center Genova with sea access. Bonacossa says to stop by La Strambata to enjoy an aperitif on the beach “in the beautiful and romantic setting of the old village.” The sunsets from here are particularly spectacular, especially when paired with a cold glass of local Vermentino. 

DINNER

Trattoria Osvaldo (Boccadasse) – If you’re not ready to leave Boccadasse just yet, you’re in luck, for Bonacossa recommends staying for dinner at Trattoria Osvaldo, “one of the most renowned places in town.” Cozy up in their classic trattoria dining room and enjoy beautiful presentations of many classic Ligurian dishes, from pansoti con salsa di noci to their version of cappon magro. 

AFTER HOURS

Les Rouges – After dinner, Bonacossa’s suggestion is to head back into Genova and enjoy a drink (or two) at Les Rouges, “a refined and evocative setting in the historic center” owned by three brothers. Set inside the grand Imperial Palace, you’ll sip your cocktails under a stunning frescoed ceiling. Their monthly changing menu features a tight list of snacks plus a refreshingly inventive cocktail list–like the PBS with peanut-infused gin, lemon, and sugar, and the Spritz Genovese with Basilichito, lemon, sparkling wine, and Asinello Corochinato. 

Listen to music at Louisiana Jazz Club – If you happen to be in town on Saturday or Sunday, finish your evening at the exclusive Louisiana Jazz Club for what Bonacossa promises to be “excellent music in a wonderful and welcoming atmosphere.” Tiny little tables and live bands that range in style from rock ‘n’ roll to jazz, blues, and reggae, this is the grooviest spot in the city.