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Trentino-Alto Adige

10 Rifugi to Refuel at in Madonna di Campiglio

Ain't no mountain high enough to keep us away from these ski-in-ski-out spots

“But, as anybody who enjoys this wintertime sport will tell you, half of the fun of skiing is the après ski, and here, that means one thing only: rifugi.”

A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, jam, coffee on a rumpled white-sheeted hotel bed; visible hotel logos in soft light. A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, and berries sits on a white bed; Hotel d’Inghilterra Roma logo appears on the right.

The region of Trentino-Alto Adige–surrounded by the UNESCO World Heritage Dolomites, spectacular white peaks rising 3,000 meters, granite spires, and sky-piercing Adamello Presanella glaciers–is a deservedly beloved ski destination. But, as anybody who enjoys this wintertime sport will tell you, half of the fun of skiing is the après ski, and here, that means one thing only: rifugi

Rifugi are Italy’s answer to ski chalets–at their most simple, they’re pit stops to warm up between runs, grab a snack from a cafeteria-style tavola calda, and use the bathroom, but the best ones are so much more. Some–like the ones below–are even dining destinations in their own right, there with open doors for anybody looking to sample the region’s belly-warming cuisine, bask in the sun on a tree-top terrace, and fill their lungs with crisp Alpine air. After all, after a few hours of skiing on the historic Canalone Miramonti (which hosted the first World Cup race held in Italy in 1967), the Centenary slope (inaugurated in 2011 to mark a hundred years of skiing in Campiglio), and the famous Tulot (one of the longest black diamond runs in the Dolomites), or trying acrobatic jumps at Ursus Snowpark (amongst the largest in Europe), you’ll surely have worked up an appetite. 

These down-to-earth, family-run rifugi run the gamut from beautiful alpine huts to conceptual interior design gems, but what they all have in common is a deep appreciation for and commitment to showcasing the natural beauty of this terroir, letting the ingredients and natural scenery shine. So bookmark these for your next snow day, and leave some time off the slopes to take in the sunset, treat yourself to a sticky-sweet rosada, and sip sparkling wine by the crackling fire while the snow falls around. Sounds like something out of a Hallmark movie, doesn’t it?

Alberto Schiavon–a former Olympic skier and now showrunner of Chalet del Sogno–and Michelle Bozzi–events and communication advisor and, during the season, a ski instructor–gave us their insider recommendations for the best rifugi in their local area of Madonna di Campiglio.

REACHABLE BY SKI

The SkiArea of Madonna di Campiglio connects four ski resorts: Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Folgarida, and Marilena. If you love exploring via ski trails and lifts with one ski pass, this section is for you. All of these–except for the ultimate entry–are also reachable for non-skiers by gondola (plus a short walk, sometimes). 

Chalet Spinale

Chalet Spinale – This popular spot can get crowded, but with good reason–amongst a sea of distinctly average spots on the slopes in Campiglio, it’s one of the best places. You can choose to have lunch inside in the restaurant to warm up or on the cantilevered terrace to take in the close-up view of the Brenta Dolomites group; it’s become a cult favorite spot amongst tourists and locals alike. The à la carte menu is great for regional classics, and the self-service section, which offers pizza and other easy plates, is excellent. Breakfast here is also lovely, and desserts should be ordered no matter what time of day you stop by. Located at 2,100 meters just after exiting the Spinale cable car, the recently redesigned space boasts a modern feel while still maintaining its historic charm.

Rifugio Boch Gourmet cuisine and tradition, easy to reach even for those on foot. The Scalfi family–Roberto, his wife, and their daughters Roberta and Chiara–guarantee great hospitality, an excellent wine list, a very cozy wooden dining room, and a sunny terrace with open views.

Rifugio Viviani Pradalago – The Viviani family has run this cozy spot since the 1960s. Expect unfussy, wholesome fare steeped in tradition, with a view of the entire length of the Dolomites. 

Rifugio 5 Laghi – Nestled in the natural landscape and a destination for those who’ve hiked the scenic 5 Laghi (five lakes) trail, this rifugio offers stunning views of peaks on peaks on peaks. It’s a great spot for a mid-morning break, and all of the desserts are fantastic. 

Ristorante Malga Cioca (Pinzolo) – This historic refugio with only a few tables offers a rustic and homely atmosphere. Chocolate salami is a must-try, and there is a breathtaking view of the Adamello glacier and the Presanella Peak. Stefano, his wife, and their daughters ensure all their guests are met with love and authenticity. After a run down the challenging Tulot, this spot is perfectly located for a well-deserved rest. Non-skiers can reach the restaurant with the Tulot gondola. 

Bar Ristorante Rifugio Doss del Sabion (Pinzolo) – Completely renovated this year, this rifugio has one of the most expansive views in the entire ski area. The architect designed the space to blend into the environment, and with the villages of Madonna di Campiglio and Pinzolo far below and surrounded by the Brenta and Adamello Dolomites, there’s no place to feel more at one with the mountains. Skiing here is a particularly special experience, but those on foot can reach the rifugio thanks to a brand new gondola. 

Rifugio Orso Bruno (Commezzadura) – The real draw at this rifugio, perched at an altitude of 2,200 meters, is the fantastic pizza, made in a wood-fired oven. But it’s also worth coming for the spectacular views that cover the Brenta Dolomites, as well as the Ortles-Cevedale range and their almost 4,000 meter tall peaks. Note: This spot is exclusively reachable by ski!

Chalet Spinale

REACHABLE ONLY ON FOOT (OR SNOWSHOE)

For those who prefer activities off the slopes, these options are great destinations for a summertime hike or wintertime trek with snowshoes. 

Rifugio Ritorto – A 30-minute walk from the slopes but well worth the trek for the incredible views over the mountainscape and tranquil atmosphere. Dinner under the starry sky here is not to be missed. You can call ahead and try to arrange a transfer from the hill by snowmobile.  

Rifugio Nambino – Walk 20 minutes uphill through a wooded trail and you’ll be rewarded with a lakeside chalet that’s as quaint and classic as it gets. It’s especially beautiful under the light of the full moon, which lights the path and makes everything seem like a winter wonderland. 

Malga Mondifra – The setting is more of a draw here than the food, so temper your expectations accordingly. But, the surrounding area is beautiful and it’s a nice destination to walk to, through forested paths and surrounded by mountain views. 

Chalet Spinale

Rifugio Boch

Rifugio Viviani Pradalago

Rifugio 5 Laghi

Ristorante Malga Cioca (Pinzolo)

Bar Ristorante Rifugio Doss del Sabion (Pinzolo)

Rifugio Orso Bruno (Commezzadura)

Rifugio Ritorto

Rifugio Nambino

Malga Mondifra