Come to Florence in the off-season, and gone are the throngs of tourists wielding selfie sticks like medieval swords and the blazing summer sun turning cobblestone streets into an urban sauna. Instead, from mid-October through March, you get a city at its most charming—one that smells of roasting chestnuts, glows with the pinkest sunsets you’ve ever seen, and has more than enough red wines and hearty dishes to go around. (And, closer to the holidays, the city goes all out on Christmas lights, from twinkling displays across bridges to Christmas trees in piazzas; it’s surprisingly winter wonderlandy.)
If you want to double your winnings, we recommend living “la vita di quartiere” and staying at a distance from the Duomo. The neighborhood of San Marco is a great choice, where Four Seasons Hotel Firenze offers a home base to explore the more grounded side of local life. The hotel is housed inside the Palazzo Delle Gherardesca, built in 1473 by Bartolomeo Scala, and the Palazzo Del Nero, a 16th-century building that once served as the country estate of the noble Del Nero family, both featuring beautifully frescoed interiors and one of Florence’s largest private gardens.
So, if you’re looking for a Florentine getaway that doesn’t come with long lines or sunscreen emergencies, here are 10 reasons why the city in the fall or winter might just be your new favorite trip.
1. Say Goodbye to Long Lines
Standing in hour-long queues to see Michelangelo’s David? What a waste of time (that could be spent visiting some off-the-beaten-path sites). In the off-season, you can practically skip right into the Uffizi Galleries or Galleria dell’Accademia–no one breathing down your neck. Plus, less time in lines means you’ll have more time to visit lesser-known but equally great museums like Palazzo Strozzi, which hosts rotating exhibitions, and Museo Nazionale del Bargello. At the latter, don’t miss the not-so-famous but, dare we say, equally interesting statue of David, by Donatello.
2. Peaceful Piazzas
Vying for aperitivo space in Piazza Santo Spirito on a summer’s evening is like a jungle scene out of Planet Earth. In the quieter months, the piazzas (even Piazza del Duomo!) take on a certain tranquility, making it easier to admire the architecture or start up a convo with the locals hanging out. One of our all-time favorites is Piazza della Passera, where you grab one of the best gelatos in Florence from Gelateria della Passera (no matter the weather!) or a spritz and some cicchetti at Bulli & Balene. These days, you’ll find more space to sit, relax, and soak in the scene.
3. A Break from the Heat (And Mosquitos)
This is when the entire city breathes a sigh of relief, offering up crisp air after the sticky, sweat-soaked heat of summer. Gone is the oppressive humidity that blankets the city during peak tourist months, with blazing temperatures that make every step feel like a pilgrimage, and the persistent buzz of mosquitos plotting their next ambush. Wandering the streets is suddenly a pleasure, not an endurance test, and cool nights make an al fresco aperitivo at Il Santino or a cozy one inside the Atrium Bar, which makes one of the city’s best negronis in the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze, downright magical.
4. The Scents of the Season
In the summer, it seems all you can smell is sweat. Yuck. In the off-season, however, you might catch the woodsy aroma of fires burning, which waft in from the countryside, or the enticing smell of roasting chestnuts from street vendors. During this period, all your senses come into play, and the city is as cozy as can be. To get into the countryside vibe even more, head just outside the city center to Ristorante Tullio, which makes a mean bistecca alla Fiorentina, or Da Delfina–barely a 15-minute drive from the north side of the city and yet well immersed in nature.
5. Wines that Match the Mood
Summer isn’t summer with a crisp glass of something white, and winter isn’t winter without a full-bodied red. Good thing Tuscany produces superlative bottles of the latter, making off-season the perfect time to enjoy robust Chianti Classicos and Brunellos–best paired with the hearty dishes highlighted below. Try them at top wine bars like Enoteca Bellini, Vineria Sonora, or Enoteca Spontanea, or head outside the city center to charming towns in wine country. (And, if you’re looking to go beyond Chianti, check out these five Tuscan reds you need to try.)
6. Comfort Foods Galore
Florence’s culinary canon really gets to shine during the colder months, when heartwarming classics like ribollita, peposo, and zuppa di fagioli make their grand appearance alongside roasted meats and potatoes. Plus, when you get the meat sweats from a hefty bistecca, leaving restaurants will, quite literally, feel like a breath of fresh air. Try superlative versions of all these plates at longtime Florentine establishments like Vini e Vecchi Sapori, Il Latini, and Cibrèo Caffè. (The latter also makes the city’s best patè di fegato, or chicken liver pate–a can’t miss.)
7. Seasonal Harvests
If you’re looking for a bounty of local flavors, autumn is for you. Chestnut season is in full swing, and fresh truffles, olio nuovo, and porcini take center stage. There’s plenty of places to get a taste of these seasonal goodies: head to Fattoria di Maiano for fresh-pressed olive oil just outside of the city center, to Osteria delle Tre Panche for a full truffle menu, or Alla Vecchia Bettola for porcini grilled, fried, raw, atop tagliolini, and all other sorts of scrumptious preparations.
8. Florentine Fashion at Its Best
With fall comes Florentines flaunting their favorite clothes: vests and Barbour jackets, foulards, boots, and tailored pants in a natural palette of greens, browns, and deep burgundies. Unlike Milan, Florence is all about effortless chic—a style that perfectly reflects the blend of urban sophistication and countryside charm that defines the city. And you too can dress to impress. You’ll find a treasure trove of the aforementioned Barbours and foulards at vintage stores like Recollection by Albrici and Boutique Nadine. If new stuff is more your game, head to Sartoria Marinaro di Mario Sciales for tailor-made suits and blazers on appointment, Principe di Firenze for smart button-downs and pants, or Loretta Capponi for colorful knitwear for women.
9. Brilliant Sunsets
The sunsets in Florence during the off-season are nothing short of spectacular. The cooler temperatures often bring crystal-clear skies and bright pinks, oranges, and golds that glow over the Arno, the hills, and the rooftops. For a front-row seat, grab a cocktail at Palazzo Guadagni’s La Loggia in Santo Spirito, where you can also overlook the activity in the piazza below. If you’re craving something more exclusive, book a private dinner at the Italy Segreta HQ—it’s a chance to see the city glow in a way that feels tailor-made just for you. This is the stuff that reminds you why Florence has inspired the greatest artists for centuries.
10. A More Local Vibe
Florentines can’t stand the cityscape in the heat–and that means that summer weekends are spent fuori città in Maremma and Versilia. In the fall and winter, however, the locals stay home–and are more relaxed and friendly, since restaurateurs don’t need to be constantly turning tables, artigiani aren’t bombarded by time-pressing requests, and baristas don’t need to deal with an overload of requests for “lattes”. You’ll feel this vibe the best at local bars like Pasticceria Gualtieri and Cantinetta di Verrazzano. This is the moment that allows for a deeper connection to the city–don’t waste it.
