Carbonara. Nothing gets Romans more fired up than their most beloved pasta… not even soccer (and that’s saying something). The debate varies from where to find the best one in town (the classic response is at mamma’s or nonna’s) to how many eggs or egg yolks one puts into the perfect version to whether it’s served with rigatoni or spaghetti (a question that’s almost caused fist fights in the Italy Segreta office). Quite simply, if you haven’t eaten a carbonara in Rome, you haven’t eaten a carbonara. Many around the world have tried to imitate it successfully, but very few have succeeded–and certainly not with versions containing abominations like mushrooms and peas. No, no, no, no. Roman carbonara has three ingredients and three ingredients only: eggs, Pecorino Romano (sheep’s milk cheese) and guanciale (cured pork cheek or jowl). And, under no circumstances, cream. 

The below list, by no means exhaustive, is of tried-and-true places to get a carbonara in the Eternal City. 

P.S. Once you’ve had your fill of carbonara (is that even possible?), be sure to check out where to feast on Rome’s many other specialties–cacio e pepe, carciofi alla giudia, trippa romana, to name but a few–with our list of the best Roman restaurants.

THE CLASSIC

SANTOPALATO – Voted several times over as Rome’s best carbonara (controversial for being a relative newcomer on the scene), Chef Sarah Cicolini’s version is everything a carbonara should be: creamy, salty, and showcases the exceptional quality of its three ingredients. 

ROSCIOLI – A high quality carbonara with the finest ingredients. The Roscioli name is well-known in Rome and beyond (they just opened a New York outpost!) for excellence. This wine bar and salumeria books up fast but do yourself a favor and reserve in advance online. 

DA ENZO – One of the best carbonaras in Trastevere, and a rare example of a place that lives up to the Instagram hype. There’s always a long line at the front, which is half the fun–get a Spritz to go from one of the many bars in the neighborhood while you wait. Kick off with the burrata, but don’t miss the carbonara as you dine elbow to elbow.

DA TEO – A quintessential Roman trattoria experience. Dine inside or out on all of the Eternal City classics including the carbonara and a mean amatriciana. Get the puntarelle when in season, and the artichokes are to die for. 

PIPERO – Carbonara and a fine dining experience. Pipero has one star in the prestigious Michelin guide and their version–a classic recipe made more refined in upscale surroundings–is not to be missed. 

FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO – An incredible carbonara in a historic location. This local favorite is in Monte Testaccio, a cool neighborhood built on a mound of amphora tile pieces that date back to Ancient Rome. Pro tip: finish off with their surprise-filled tiramisù.

…THE NOT SO CLASSIC 

These days, carbonara isn’t only found on pasta: some of Rome’s best chefs have taken inspiration from the classic dish and created new and beloved dishes, like carbonara suppli and even carbonara on pizza, in a very meta moment for Roman cuisine.  

I SUPPLÌ – Carbonara on the run. Their version is silky smooth and for a few euros, you can have a quick lunch, dinner, or anytime snack. While their classic supplì is famous, try the carbonara one too!

SUPPLIZIO – A gourmet take on suppli. In addition to a delectable carbonara supplì, you’ll find many other flavor combinations on the menu devised by prominent roman chef Arcangelo Dandini.

BONCI PIZZARIUM – As seen on Chef’s Table: Pizza, Gabriele Bonci is the original pioneer of taking leftover carbonara, coating it in breadcrumbs, and frying it into golden suppli perfection. While you’re here, make sure to grab a few slices of al taglio pizza too. 

MAMA EAT – For those looking to avoid gluten, this place caters to celiacs with two kitchens and their entire menu (from fritti to pasta to pizza) available in gluten-free format.